Sestri Levante: The City of Two Seas
Sestri Levante is often called the “City of Two Seas,” and for good reason. Tucked away on the Italian Riviera between Genoa and La Spezia, it sits on a rocky promontory that creates two distinct, stunning bays. It’s a place where dolce vita isn’t just a slogan; it’s the local pace of life.
A glimpse into the past
Sestri Levante began as a small maritime village on an island that was eventually connected to the mainland by a narrow strip of land.
Ancient Roots: Originally a Roman settlement known as Segesta Tigulliorum.
Medieval Power: It became an important strategic point for the Republic of Genoa, which built fortifications to protect against pirates.
Literary Fame: In the 19th century, it became a favorite stop for writers and artists. H.C. Andersen fell so deeply in love with the town that one of the bays is named after him.
The Two Bays
Sestri is defined by its unique geography. On one side of the narrow isthmus you have Baia delle Favole (Bay of Fairies), named after Italo Calvino. It is the larger side with a long promenade, lively beach clubs and the sound of children playing – a true summer holiday.
On the other side is Baia del Silenzio (Bay of Silence). This is the “postcard” view: a peaceful, crescent-shaped beach framed by pastel-coloured houses reflecting in the crystal-clear water. It feels like a hidden gem, perfect for a quiet retreat or a stroll at sunset.
Typical foods (Tastes of Liguria)
The cuisine here is all about fresh herbs and the catch of the day.
Testaroli with pesto: A pancake-like pasta made from water and flour, tossed in the world-famous Ligurian basil pesto.
Focaccia di Recco: While nearby Recco is the home, Sestri makes a fine version of this thin, cheese-filled flatbread.
Bagnun: A traditional local soup made with fresh anchovies, tomatoes, onions and hard crackers (gallette del marinaio).
Vermentino: A crisp white wine that pairs perfectly with the local seafood.
Activities and Festivals
Whether you want to be active or just enjoy the coastal atmosphere, there’s plenty to do.
Andersen Festival (May/June): A world-class event dedicated to fairy tales, street theatre and performances celebrating the town’s connection to H.C. Andersen.
Sagra del Bagnun (July): A massive food festival in Riva Trigoso where locals prepare the traditional anchovy soup for all to enjoy.
Shopping on the “Carruggio”: Stroll through the narrow pedestrian street (Via XXV Aprile) to find artisan shops and boutiques.
Nature and Outdoor Activities
Punta Manara: A spectacular hiking trail that starts in the town center and takes you through olive groves and Mediterranean scrub to a viewpoint overlooking the entire Gulf of Tigullio.
Diving and snorkeling: The rocky coastline offers clear waters and vibrant marine life, especially near the "Silent Bay".
Riva Trigoso: Just over the hill, this quieter neighborhood offers wide pebble beaches and a more rugged, natural atmosphere.
Sestri Levante is the kind of place where you can spend your vacation doing absolutely everything or absolutely nothing.