Located in the northern part of the Var department in Provence, the Haut-Var (High Var) is a stunning contrast to the glitz of the French Riviera. It is a land of dramatic limestone cliffs, deep gorges, emerald waters, and perched medieval villages surrounded by oak forests and olive groves.
History & Character
The Haut-Var has a rugged, resilient history. Because of its hilly terrain, many villages were built as "villages perchés" (perched villages) during the Middle Ages to protect inhabitants from invaders.
Templar Influence: The region was a stronghold for the Knights Templar in the 12th century, particularly in villages like Villecroze and Saint-Antonin-du-Var.
Rural Roots: Historically, the economy relied on olive oil, wine, and sheep farming. Today, it retains a "secret Provence" feel, far less crowded than the coast.
Nature & Landscapes
The nature here is the primary draw, dominated by the Parc Naturel Régional du Verdon.
Gorges du Verdon: Often called the "Grand Canyon of Europe," these massive limestone cliffs drop into a turquoise river.
Lac de Sainte-Croix: A massive man-made lake with strikingly blue water, perfect for swimming and boating.
Sillans-la-Cascade: A breathtaking 42-meter waterfall that looks like a tropical paradise.
Grottes de Villecroze: Ancient troglodyte (cave) dwellings carved into a massive tuff cliff.
Typical Foods & Gastronomy
The cuisine of the Haut-Var is "Cuisine du Terroir"—earthy, seasonal, and rooted in the land.
Truffles: Known as "Black Diamonds," especially around Aups, which hosts one of the largest truffle markets in France from November to February.
Olive Oil: The region produces high-quality AOC Provence olive oil.
Honey: Scented with lavender, rosemary, and wild thyme.
Crespeou: A savory "cake" made of stacked herb omelets.
Rosé Wine: You are in the heart of the Côtes de Provence region; the local rosés are world-class.
Activities
Water Sports: Kayaking, electric boating, and pedal boating in the Gorges du Verdon and Lac de Sainte-Croix.
Hiking: Hundreds of kilometers of trails, including the famous Martel Trail through the depths of the canyon.
Cycling: Challenging climbs for road cyclists and rugged trails for mountain bikers.
Stargazing: Because of the low light pollution, the Haut-Var offers some of the clearest night skies in France.
Shops & Artisans
Shopping in the Haut-Var is about local craftsmanship rather than big brands.
Moustiers-Sainte-Marie Pottery: Famous for its delicate white-glazed "faïence."
Salernes Ceramics: Renowned for the "tomettes" (hexagonal red floor tiles) and colorful artisanal pottery.
Village Markets: Almost every village has a weekly morning market (Aups on Wednesdays/Saturdays and Cotignac on Tuesdays are highlights).
Festivals
Fête de la Truffe (Aups): Held in January, celebrating the black truffle with tastings and markets.
Fête de l'Olivier: Various villages celebrate the olive harvest in late autumn.
Fête de la Saint-Jean: Midsummer solstices are celebrated with giant bonfires and traditional music in June.