Tossa de Mar, a gem on Spain's Costa Brava, offers a rich blend of history, unique gastronomy, and year-round activities set against a beautiful natural backdrop.
History and Description
Tossa de Mar is a captivating coastal town in Catalonia, located about 100 kilometers north of Barcelona. It is one of the few remaining fortified medieval towns on the Catalan coast, with a history spanning back thousands of years:
Ancient Origins: Evidence of settlements dates back to the Neolithic period, and the Romans established the city of Turissa in the 1st century BC. You can visit the remnants of this Roman past at the Villa Romana dels Ametllers in the town center.
The Medieval Town: The town's most iconic feature is the Vila Vella (Old Town) enclosure, a magnificent walled fortress whose present appearance dates to the end of the 14th century. Built to protect the population from pirates and invaders, its stone walls, four turrets, and three cylindrical towers are still intact. The site was declared a national historic monument in 1931.
The Lighthouse: At the highest point of the Vila Vella, where a medieval castle once stood, is the operational Tossa Lighthouse, which now houses the Mediterranean Lighthouse Interpretation Centre.
The Artist's Retreat: In the 1930s, Tossa de Mar became a haven for artists, with figures like Marc Chagall being inspired by the light and beauty of the town.
Modern Tourism: The town gained international fame in 1951 when actress Ava Gardner filmed Pandora and the Flying Dutchman there. A statue of her stands in the Vila Vella today.
While often described as a fishing town, its traditional economy was historically based on agricultural production, particularly grapes and cork, with fishing being a supplementary income source.
Typical Foods (Gastronomy)
Tossa de Mar's cuisine is a part of the greater Catalan gastronomy, strongly influenced by its coastal location and its "sea and mountain" (Mar i Muntanya) cooking style.
The town's quintessential and most famous dish is:
Cim i Tomba: This traditional fishermen's fish stew is the town's culinary specialty. Its name, which means "top and bottom," refers to the ingredients. Historically, fishermen cooked it on board with unwanted market fish, potatoes, onions, garlic, and oil. Today, it is a refined dish made with firm white fish like monkfish or cod, potatoes, onions, tomato, garlic, olive oil, and sometimes saffron, all finished with a dollop of aioli. The town even holds the Cim i Tomba Gastronomic Days in September where local restaurants feature variations of the dish.
Other notable local flavors include:
Seafood and Rice Dishes: Being on the coast, fresh seafood is abundant, including prawns, squid, and local fish. You will find classic Catalan dishes like Paella and Fideuà (a similar dish made with short noodles instead of rice) at many restaurants.
Local Twists: Some local recipes, such as stuffed squid or meatballs, occasionally incorporate dark chocolate into the picada (a thick Catalan sauce) for a unique flavor, a tradition dating back to the town's trade with the Americas.
Activities and Nature
Nature and Beaches
Tossa de Mar is renowned for its natural environment, featuring stunning beaches and coves nestled in a pristine setting.
Beaches: The three main beaches are:
Platja Gran (Tossa Beach): The main beach, located right in front of the downtown area, bordered by the medieval walls of the Vila Vella.
La Mar Menuda: Located on the other side of the bay, known for its services and clear waters.
El Codolar: A smaller, secluded beach found just behind the medieval walls.
Coves and Natural Exploration: For a quieter experience, explore the more secluded coves like Cala Pola and Cala Giverola, which are perfect for water sports.
Camí de Ronda: The coastal path network known as the Camí de Ronda offers spectacular hiking opportunities along the breathtaking cliffs and pine forests of the Costa Brava, connecting various coves and viewpoints.
Water Activities: The clear waters are ideal for snorkeling and diving. Kayaking and paddleboarding tours are also popular ways to explore the coastal caves and rock formations.
Activities (Summer and Winter)
Summer (High Season): Activities revolve around the water and vibrant street life. You can enjoy the beaches, water sports, boat trips, and exploring the narrow, cobbled streets of the Vila Vella.
Winter (Low Season): The town is quieter, offering a more tranquil experience focusing on cultural and historical exploration. Activities include:
Visiting the Vila Vella and the Lighthouse Museum.
Exploring the Roman ruins of Villa Romana dels Ametllers and the Municipal Museum.
Hiking the scenic sections of the Camí de Ronda.
Enjoying Catalan cuisine in cozy restaurants.
Festivals and Events
Tossa de Mar has a rich calendar of events celebrating Catalan traditions, religion, and the arts:
Festival / Event Season Time of Year Description
Festa Major d'Estiu (Summer Major Festival) Summer End of June (around St. Peter's Day, June 29th) The most important annual celebration, honoring the fishermen's patron saint, Sant Pere. Features concerts, traditional Catalan dances (sardanes), firework displays, and a traditional maritime procession.
Festa Major d'Hivern (Winter Major Festival) Winter January 22nd (St. Vincent's Day) Honors the patron saint of the parish with religious and cultural events.
Carnival Winter February A colorful street spectacle featuring parades, music, dance, and costumes.
Sant Jordi Spring April 23rd Catalonia's version of Valentine's Day. Couples exchange a rose and a book.
Corpus Christi Spring/Summer Movable Feast (May/June) The town center's streets are beautifully adorned with elaborate flower carpets for the procession.
Sant Joan Festival Summer June 24th (Night of June 23rd) Celebrates the summer solstice with beach bonfires, fireworks, and live music.
Tossa de Mar Rumba Festival Summer July A lively musical event celebrating the rhythms of Catalan Rumba.
Cim i Tomba Gastronomic Days Autumn September A culinary festival where local restaurants offer special menus featuring the traditional cim i tomba stew.
Aplec de Sant Grau Autumn October 13th A popular, traditional religious gathering at the Sant Grau monastery in the nearby Cadiretes mountain range, often accompanied by sardana dancing.